By Manon C. Photos by Manon C. Posted on May 13, 2022 at 4:20 p.m.
Two years later, here we are back at Tamara, the inventive and delicate table of chef Clément Vergeat. A gastronomic pilgrimage that touches the heart.
It’s a walk four landscapes that offers adventurous aesthetes the Chef Clement Vergeat in his restaurant Tamara. Beyond the seas, oceans, vineyards and fields, the young chef revealed in 2018 by Top chef gives the tempo to wanderings which touch the heart and cause a torrent ofemotions from there delicacy of dressings and the tenderness brought to the simplest products.
Already during our first visit to Tamara, shortly after its opening, the finesse of mind and execution by Clément Vergeat touched us. Advocating from the start the zero waste and an local and seasonal cuisinethe chef details the raw products, works them from head to toe, from stem to leaves, and has excessive fun with various processes, fermentationsmoking and salting in mind.
Two years later, we still remember this incredible fried artichoke and brown crab, this breaded cauliflower with garlic and smoked paprika, or even these cherry tomatoes fermented for 12 days in order to reveal, to their heart, their aromas. . But in two years, things have grown, evolved in the right direction, and we still can’t understand that this table so inventive, so creativedid not pick up a star from the sky or from the pages of the famous red guide.
Whatever, in the end we are happy to keep this little secret and to share it only with gourmets with wide open ears. Promising, daringthis table is even more so since the chef and his team reveal themselves inside a 9-course tasting menu and 4 great times, from vegetal to sweet, through the sea and the land. And that the epic is beautiful.
We savor the first seasonal asparagus, in puffed crisps, inside a small bouquet of fresh herbs accompanied by an oyster mayonnaise, or as a tartare on a honey crisp; we then enjoy a generous slice of sourdough bread that we brush with a homemade butter with shellfish beards and razor clams. And then we take to the sea, gently, with this beautifully dressed seaweed saladseasoned with granny smith apple, pickled mustard seeds, bitter radicchio and nasturtium leaves like water lilies, moistened with a fabulous razor clam broth.
We sink into the depths, to meet this sardine, fermented potato and smoked herring roe, again with particular care given to the juice, here a bouillabaisse juice, which is dipped in a brisk gesture with bouillabaisse bread, made from the dried trimmings of the fish used for the broth. The trout, cooked at low temperature, then invites itself to our table, and adorns itself with lovage chlorophyll, sea urchin, lemon wedges, oyster leaf and glasswort.
Before reaching the mainland, we bite into a Wild garlic pesto tartlet, fresh peas and rhubarb pickles – we still think about it. Moreover, even more than the earth, it is in the air that the sequel continues, with a pigeon that are presented to us whole. This beautiful beast goes back to the kitchen and comes back to us cut up and without accompaniment. Here, all the pleasure is based on the beauty of the meat, the ideal cooking and the flavors that linger in the mouth; sublimated, again, by a meat juice with a lot of relief.
The skies, we stay there with this aerial cloudy foam of lavender slightly sweet which prepares the palate for the sweetness to come. We end this trip at the foot of a pear tree, to crunch with enthusiasm in a roasted and burnt pearmarried to miso and an black garlic ice cream. A final note without embellishment but devilishly sapid. We persist and sign, Tamara is one of the large Parisian tables.
This test was carried out as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know in the comments.